Runaway Dinosaur

For the love of the music…..

Friday Food-Serious Eats’ New York Fall 2008 Restaurant Preview

Posted by jhochstat on September 5, 2008

via Serious Eats: New York by Ed Levine on 9/4/08

I was amazed when I read the New York TimesFall Dining Preview and discovered that even in these extremely iffy financial times, 45 new restaurants are set to open in New York in the next three months. How could that be? I think many of these newcomers, and quite a few of the old ones, will not survive a New York winter. In any case, I carefully read the entire section looking for excitement and came up with a surprisingly skimpy list of ten Serious Eats-anticipated openings.


It’s the idiosyncratic but brilliant Sullivan Street Bakery Jim Lahey’s pizzeria—and it’s perilously close to Serious Eats World HQ. I’ve been to one of the New Years’ pizza parties mentioned in the Times piece, where his Neapolitan-style pizza was crazy good.

230 Ninth Avenue (nr. 24th Street; map)

Salumeria Rosi

Tuscan chef supreme Cesare Casella’s sandwich-butcher-cured meats shop on the Upper West Side, a mere five blocks from my house.

283 Amsterdam Avenue (nr. 73rd Street; map)

West Branch

One of New York’s great chefs Tom Valenti (of Ouest) is setting up an all-day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) eating spot adjacent to the trendy hotel On the Avenue on West 77th Street. If anyone can produce great burgers, eggs, and more serious fare out of one kitchen, Valenti can.

2178 Broadway (nr. 77th Street; map)

John Dory

April Bloomfield cooks deliciously earthy, deceptively simple food at the Spotted Pig, so I’m eagerly awaiting her fish restaurant. Added bonus: unlike dinner at the Spotted Pig, co-owner Ken Friedman promises that diners will actually be able to hold a civil conversation with one another without screaming. What a concept!

85 Tenth Avenue (nr. 16th Street; map)

Permanent Brunch

How can any all-day brunch menu be bad if it includes a bacon bar?

95 First Avenue (nr. Sixth Street; map)

Fatty ‘Cue

Zak Pelaccio’s global ‘cue joint will feature partner and founding Hill Country pitmaster Robbie Richter manning the pits. The only thing that worries me here is Pelaccio’s proverbial ADD, which often stops him from consistently executing his always interesting concepts.

91 South Sixth Street, Williamsburg (nr. Berry Street; map)

Macao Trading Company

The wild card in the bunch, this is a Chinese-Portuguese restaurant from Chanterelle’s David Waltuck and his sous-chef, Keith Harry. I have had Waltuck’s Chinese food at Chanterelle parties, and it’s definitely worthy of our attention. The Portuguese-Chinese culinary connection, I am not familiar with.

311 Church Street (nr. Walker Street; map)

Bar Breton

Cyril Renaud is a very good cook and a very personal one at that, so a restaurant that according to Florence Fabricant “pays homage to his native Brittany” promises to be special. Sweet and savory crepes, anyone?

254 Fifth Avenue (nr. 28th Street; map)


How could you not salivate about the prospect of Sara Jenkins, an accomplished Italian chef, opening a sandwich shop where she will “roast pigs and slice the loin and belly for sandwiches,” according to an old Fabricant blurb? It was strange that Porchetta was left out of the Times’ preview section. And, it was nowhere to be found in Time Out New York‘s preview issue either. Robin and Rob over at New York Magazine did mention it in their preview story. I just spoke to Sara, who assured me that Porchetta will open sometime this fall. Yay!

110 East 7th Street (between Avenue A and First Avenue; map)

Pies ‘N Thighs

I must admit that I loved the idea of the old Pies N’ Thighs more than the reality, but maybe this time around the food will live up to its name—for the record, one of the coolest restaurant names ever.

166 South Fourth Street (at Driggs Avenue; map)

Here are some other contenders, but we’re not technically giving extra credit for restaurant-cloning:

The new Kefi doesn’t count, because even though I am sure it will be great, it’s a move and an expansion, not a new concept. Ditto for the Shake Shack, on the Upper West Side, where the burgers and frozen custard are sure to rock and the french fries will continue to be trans-fat-free and frozen. Same with the Fatty Crab branch in the same neighborhood.

One note of caution on opening dates: restaurants often open weeks and even months after they think they are going to open. So always call first before going.


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